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Elsdon is well worth a visit today to see the church,
the parsonage, the green, and take a stroll round the neighbouring countryside.
It is
only 12 miles from Rothbury along a winding road that takes the visitor though beautiful
countryside and across lonely moors,
The name may have been derived from a corruption of
"Elisden", "Ellesden" or "Ellesdene", all of which means
"the valley of waters". Local tradition, however, insists that the name comes
from "Ella" or "Elli" a Danish giant living on the Mote Hills. So take
your pick: valley of waters or Danish Giant.
So what else do we know about
Elsdon?
Well it was the medieval capital of Redesdale.
It
boasts a parish church, a fortified parsonage, the Mote Hills and a pub. In 1498 the
Bishop of Durham complained that most of the inhabitants were "reivers and cattle
lifters" and the clergy were no better: living openly with their mistresses many
could not read nor write and may not even have been properly ordained.
When the church was being repaired in 1877 three
horses skulls were discovered in a small cavity just above the bells. Possibly placed
there as a pagan protection against lightning or to improve the acoustics or even as an
act of sanctification they are now in a case in the church.
Deep scratches on a pillar near the entrance were
supposed to have been made by bowmen sharpening their arrows, or swordsmen their swords.
In 1810 when great mounds of earth were removed from
the north wall more than 100 skeletons were discovered, laid together with the skull of
one within the thighs of another as in one grave. More bodies were found in 1877 extending
under the north wall into the church. These are all thought to be the remains of
distinguished warriors from the Battle of Otterburn in 1388.
Lintels above the church doorway are formed from old
grave slabs. Note the carved cross and pair of scissors.
A Roman gravestone stands in the church. The only
headstone in Britain recording the details of a Roman officer's career, this tombstone
erected by Julia Lucilla was found at High Rochester in 1809.
Louis Lutens followed him till his death in 1812.
Apart from being noted as a man of letters, having written a dissertation on the identity
of the man in the iron mask, Lutens' foreign accent prevented people from attending
church. The problem was resolved when he invited a few notables to dinner and expressed
great surprise when they turned up.
He told them
"When I preach you from my pulpit
you no unnerstand my speak, but ven I invite you to my goot dine you very well
unnerstand."
Mounted on a pillar in the church is a memorial to
the parents of Capability Brown.
Close to the church stands Elsdon Tower a 14th century building with walls 8
feet thick. It
is recorded in the list of Northumberland castles and described as belonging to
the Rector of Elsdon. Over the years the building changed to provide greater
comfort to the clergy till it was sold into public hands in 1961.
Lewis Carroll' s grandfather the Rev. C. Dodgson was
rector of Elsdon from 1762 to 1765
The coat of arms of the Umfrevilles, the Howards and the Percies reflect the
change of patronage over the years.
The tower has been restored with support from the Northumberland National Park
and is considered to be the best preserved historic building in the
Northumberland National Parks with a tower that formerly providing refuge from
the notorious Border Reivers.
A figure of Bacchus
adorns one of the houses fringing the village green. Originally the
Bacchus Inn, then a cafe and now a private house the building is early 18th
century and the carving is probably of the same date.
A fine pub stands on the village green.
But don't take my word for it. Call
in and see for yourself.
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